Saturday, July 07, 2007

Today the three of us set out for Reims, a small town northeast of Paris that is a nice base for exploring the champagne region of France. We didn't explore by any means but had a good time in Reims. We left Paris around 10h35 which was good because that meant that we got to feed Michael on the train. We switched trains in Epernay so he had milk on the Paris to Epernay train and we stuffed him full of solids on the short commuter train from Epernay to Reims. I also got to change his soggy diaper in the train and the air hand dryer came on all hot and loud and made Michael cry. Anyway, here is the boy with his dad at the Reims train station. He's not terribly impressed but it was a nice, clean station with elevators. Not that I don't like carrying the stroller up and down the stairs.

Since we now work around the boy, we decided to go to Martel's Champagne Caves. The tour was kind of silly. We got to see their old bottling instruments and learn about how champagne was made and bottled. The boy liked to touch everything and not even the Bjorn could stop him.

After the museum of old instruments, we went up and got to sample 4 different champagnes for only 7 Euro per person. So only 14 euro total for the both of us! At the Mumm and Taittinger caves, it cost 7 Euro per type of tasting. Here's the old English folk that were on our tour. There were also two Swedes to our right who were very amusing. Here's our guide. He was good at pouring the champagne.

After drinking four glasses of champagne, Phuong fed the boy at the sparkling bathrooms, the best in France. She only had 1/2 glass of champagne equivalent, which must mean that I had 6 1/2 glasses. Good thing I had an hour to sleep while Phuong was feeding the beast. Unfortunately I had to stay awake and guard our stuff.
Then we headed into town to see Reims' grand cathedral. It' s been the coronation site for 26 French kings. I think Sarkozy went there when he got elected this past May. It was very large and the square in front of it was under construction. It has something like 2000 statues arranged around the west portal (the doors at the bottom of this picture). You can climb the towers but Phuong told me no.



There was a lot of stained glass inside, but these windows are somewhat distinct. Marc Chagall designed them in 1974 and they are in his fluid style. Quite a bit different from the traditional stained glass you'd find at Chartres. I think I would have liked this one better if Malcolm Miller, the old English dude who does the tours at Chartres, were there. He's very knowledgeable and witty and enhances the visit tremendously.


Reims actually had a nice city center with a couple of large pedestrian only areas. We were running a bit late but Phuong had time to run into Kookai to take a look at their clothing sales. France only has sales in January and July, so it's pretty much of a madhouse. The boy and I were not as excited as P was. Here's the entrance to a square with lots of cafes and restaurants and a few shops. I think everyone who lived in or was visiting Reims was hanging out here. P's looking lovely.

We headed back the same day using the new TGV that connects Paris to Strasbourg in 2 hours. Our particular train was delayed about 1 hour and 15 minutes by some accident due to a signal malfunction or something. We found out up close and personal how fast the TGV trains go because they did not stop at our station. When the first one went through, it was incredibly loud and Michael started crying but we calmed him down quickly. The next four trains that whizzed through, we covered his little ears.

We finally got onto our train after it was due to arrive in Paris. Michael was well behaved on the train but wanted to touch everything. Here he is looking out of the window at 120mph. At the end of the ride he was sitting on the table and a woman from Hong Kong was playing with him, but since he's scared of strangers sometimes, he just stared at her for like ten minutes. But finally he started playing with her and the Spaniards next to us. Quite the charmer this one.